TUTORIAL: Replacing bearings in a Goldtec track hub

By Ben Butterfield • Mechanics • 2 May 2012

If you ride a lot, chances are you will need to replace your hub bearings at some point. If you can feel any side to side play or roughness when spinning the wheel, then your time is now. Bearings are pretty cheap – usually around £8 for FAG or SKF, which are the ones to go for. They come in a range of sizes with code numbers to tell them apart. In the case of a rear Goldtec track hub, 6001 2RS bearings are needed. 6001 is the size and 2RS means two rubber seals.

So let’s start with a quick look at the wheel. It’s best to take the cog and lockring off for this procedure, but I seem to have gotten away with it. I’d recommend you take yours off to relieve some of the pressure on the bearings and prevent damage to the axle. Mine was already buggered.

1. Remove the old bearings and axle

After removing the wheel from the bike you should see this.

Thread a spare bolt into one end of the axle.

Tap it gently, bearing (no pun intended) in mind that the axle is made of some pretty soft alloy, not like the steel axles found in cheaper hubs.

Keep going until the bolt hits the spacer.

And there should be a bearing hanging out the other side, but still attached to the axle.

Remove the spare bolt and pull the axle out. If it’s stiff, get a spanner behind the bearing for extra leverage.

You should have something like this now.

I used the seat tube of an old MTB frame but you could use a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it or any tubing that supports the bearing. Give it a tap and the bearing should come off.

Leaving you with the axle and one bearing.

Reinsert the axle without the bearing you have already removed.

Put the spare bolt back in and give it a few taps.

Once again, you should have an axle with one bearing attached.

Use the same method to remove this bearing.

Now you have the axle and bearings fully removed, it’s time to check the axle for damage. If there is any squashing or deformation, you should probably replace it.

The inside of the hub shell, will probably be pretty mucky like this. Give it a good clean because you won’t see it for a while!

2. Fit the new bearings and axle

Grease both of the bearing seats. I used copper grease because it has good anti-seize properties.

Here are the new parts, laid out in the order they will be assembled.

Grease the axle, especially where the bearings will sit.

Press one of the bearings on by hand, ensuring it is straight.

Then seat the axle and bearing into the hub shell.

Hand fit the other bearing.

Then slide the old bearings onto the axle. We use these to prevent damaging the new bearings when applying pressure.

Put the spacers and bolts on hand tight and ensure that the spacers are aligned properly.

Do up both sides until you feel the new bearings hit the end of the seat. When this happens you will feel a pretty big rise in the pressure needed to tighten. Don’t go too hard – you only need to ensure they are seated correctly.

Take the spacers and bolts off again.

And check that both bearings are straight and sit under the lip of the hub shell.

Then slide the spacers back on both sides.

And you’re done!

4 Responses

  1. francisco conceicao

    excelent tutorial

  2. Seamy

    any idea what size bearings in the front goldtec hub?

  3. Reuben Hamon

    Oh thank you for posting this. I am about to replace my Goldtec track hubs bearings and now I know what to do. Clear instructions, great photos, no expensive tools needed…. Sheldon’s spirit lives on!

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